Friday, November 30, 2007

3.5 Months Home

I can't believe it. I've been home for as long as I was away, and not surprisingly, the last 3.5 months dragged on with school. Nothing compared to 3.5 months in Ghana... AFRICA. But, it had to be done.

It's been a challenge at times, being home; there have been so many things to do, and people to see, and school to complete. It's been a struggle, but manageable as all things are, and somehow I always seem to manage. I guess I'm lucky that way - or work really hard (I say luck but feel free to challenge me).

I think of Ghana on a daily basis. I think of the people I met, the experiences I had, the love I felt. I remember the smells, the sounds, the tastes, the sights... but I know that those will eventually die out and will become a distant memory - and as the Ghanaians would say "It pains me". I don't want to be put into a position where I don't remember, but I know it will happen. It already has for Ecuador, but my scrapbook keeps some of those memories alive and I'm thankful for that. I will have to start my Ghana scrapbook soon, although it's a little overwhelming (I'm sure it will be fun).

I've noticed that over the last month or so, my friends in the program have hit walls and roadblocks just as I have. We've found each other upset, frustrated, angry, lonesome, tired, and isolated... We've found ourselves searching flight information and trying to figure out how much it will take away from our summer earnings if we could just go back for a few weeks. I'd be afraid I'd never come back (don't panic mom, of course I would.. maybe). It's something I can't really explain and it makes it that much more difficult. I am thankful that I have friends who understand me, and who feel the same as I do, and know what sadness runs through my veins when I don't know when or if I will ever go back.

I received an email not long ago from Pops, he's looking for computers for his school - what am I supposed to do? I'm finishing my 4th year of university (about time!) and I don't have the energy right now to start that project, but it calls at me and I may just have to figure something out. What I would do if I could provide their school with computers... it would be a blessing.

I also received an email from my Ghana husband, Yaya. He is doing well, in school, and working hard. I'm happy for him and I'm sure his mum is too - he's a smart guy and I hope he has the opportunity to do something great with his life, although I know opportunities are limited.

I miss my summer and I miss the excitement - somehow my History of Sexuality class just didn't cut it this term (although it WAS a great class and I did exceptionally well - at least I hope I will). But planting mango trees and waking up to my host brother 'Young' was more fulfilling. Although... I did write a 16 page history paper on HIV/AIDS and racial blame... I guess I'm still incorporating my learnings, and that keeps me closer to my experience.

As Christmas approaches I will be making care packages for my counterparts in Ghana - I'll put pictures and letters and maybe some small gifts to send - maybe just cash, they'd know what to do with it better than I do right now. I hope they receive everything.

I've heard that Youth4Change still meets, although I have no idea what is going on, and it's tough being out of the loop, but I have faith that they are being looked after. At the very least they have supplies and resources that can answer some of their questions. I miss them and think of them often.

All in all - I don't have too much to say, my heart can't be put into words, at least not right now because it's a little pained by how much I miss them and how much I wish I could share that experience with you all.. and knowing that I can't is part of that pain. But I'm strong (we all know that, even I can't deny it) and I know things are well and good and I am a very lucky woman.

I look forward to meeting again.

Wa ma kpe (we shall meet).

Dede

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Home

Hey everyone,

So, I didn't realize the demand would be so huge for a follow-up regarding the last 2 weeks of my adventure in Ghana - until mom pointed it out to me when I got home and reminded me that I had quite the following who are interested in how everything all worked out... so, here we go.

Let me just say, the last 10 days of my trip were a blast.

The Canadian group of us attended the Ada festival - where the heritage of the Ada people were celebrated (70th anniversary festival this year), in Big Ada (go figure) for 2 days. There was music, dancing, singing, parading, and general merriment... including enormous amounts of alcohol (one brand called Pusher - more commonly known as "Pusha" - tastes like cough syrup, not that I had all that much...) and there was gun firing, albeit, no bullets, just gunpowder. Now, I don't know about you but when you've got a guy with a gun next to you and he shoots up in the air, you definitely go partially deaf for some time - it wasn't pleasant. We all got to a point where we became the 'find-any-guy-with-a-gun-and-let-the-others-know-so-we-can-all-plug-our-ears' team. It worked generally well until a drunk man with a gun (yes, I said drunk) wanders over to scare the living hell out of you. Not cool.

Anyway, we enjoyed the music and the festivities for 2 days, although it did become rather irritating as WE became part of the entertainment as people pulled you in different directions.

Three of us headed out the next day to Kumasi (about a 4.5-5 hour bus ride north-west). We explored the market there (the largest in West Africa) and needless to say we got lost inside it all. It was covered with tin roofing and was so large there was no way we'd see it all - however we did manage to pick up some neat fabrics from a lady that we just happened to find.

We spent the night in a pretty hilarious hostel room where the shower, the toilet and the bed were all within 1ft of each other - no privacy, no doors (although there was a shower curtain). We got really comfortable really fast. Only one person asked the other 2 of us to leave the room while she took care of her business.

We ate bread and "porridge" for dinner on the bed out of bags. The next morning (3:30am) we wandered the streets of Kumasi (in hindsight, not the best idea) to the big bus station to take a taxi to ANOTHER station to get a tro-tro to Tamale (4am - left at 4:30am). We were going to take a bus but the previous day when we went to purchase tickets they were sold out... so we took a tro-tro (mini-bus that has no leg room, no a/c, nothing but cramped, uncomfortable seats - and for 8 hours). We managed.

We made it to Tamale by noon. It was totally different from the south - much more Muslim, more motorbikes, more poverty, and more mud huts. It was as if we had stepped into another country altogether. It was pretty neat to see. We saw sheep on motorbikes, and even saw some shoved into the bottom of a coach bus - I don't really want to know how that turned out.

We had a child from the station lead us to the hostel - we gave him some money for taking us there, it was cheaper than a cab. We hung out for the day, relaxed, bee-bopped around and spent the night in a hotel room where the toilet and shower were separate from the bedroom.

The next day we met up with a young guy the other girls met earlier in their trip. He's Canadian and has been working at a local hospital - he's at U of Toronto studying medicine. The four of us got on a crowded bus (made for 50 and seating 70 at least) and took a 4.5 hour bus ride to Mole National Park. The ride was, well, the bumpiest, scariest, sketchiest ride I have ever taken in my life. It was as if we were on the moon, the craters were so huge we could have easily gotten stuck in any of them AND, it began to rain during the ride.

We arrived to the park without a reservation and because everything was booked, the 4 of us slept on 3 student mattresses (meaning they were maybe 3 inches thick) on the floor in the men's dormitory. What an experience. I'm pretty sure the Ghanaian men were quite confused as the three of us women crawled onto the floor to sleep and our male friend tucked himself on the edge with us. We needed somewhere to sleep, and that was our only option.

The next morning we got up and went on a two hour safari walk. We saw elephants, monkeys, antelopes (4 different types), spiders, warthogs and some beautiful scenery. The park (Mole National) is named after a famous slave trader - I don't know why, so don't ask.

The safari was pretty neat and we got really close to the elephants and monkeys, but let me tell you this, it's one thing to see these animals at the zoo when they are stuck behind a fence and you are safe, and another when they are merely feet away from you and there's no protection in between! AND, I learned afterwards that the park doesn't have a first-aid kit.

HOW DO YOU SEND PEOPLE ON A SAFARI WITH ANIMALS THAT CAN KILL YOU, AND YET YOU DON'T HAVE A FIRST-AID KIT!?

Anyway - we spent the rest of the day at the pool (yup, it's a touristy place so they have to have a pool!). It was a nice change.

The next day we took the 4am bus back to Tamale. We left our male friend to go back to work at the hospital and the three of us women killed 8 hours at a restaurant before catching our 4pm bus back to Accra (the capital). It was a 12 hour bus ride and it felt like 20 hours for me. I just couldn't get comfortable, but the other two managed to.

We made it to Accra at 4am and then hopped on a tro-tro for another 2 hours to Sega. It was a long journey.

We relaxed for a day and then headed to Ada Foah (the beach) to unwind.

I headed back to Kpong on Tuesday and made it in time for dinner.

Wednesday was my last day and I honestly don't remember too much of it off the top of my head. I spent it with the family, just hanging out, sharing some gifts I brought them and enjoying our last full day together. My "husband" showed up that evening to say goodbye, it was tough as we had a great friendship but it was necessary, and we promised to keep in touch (he called me this morning in Canada).

Thursday morning my host threw a small party for me at the house where everyone in the house was invited to eat and drink (non-alcoholic beverages) with us. There were speeches and laughter and then pictures.

Saying goodbye was tough but I tried to remain as composed as possible. I hugged everyone goodbye and only sobbed for a couple of seconds as I waved goodbye to some people as I walked down my road to the street to get a tro-tro. I was quite proud of myself as it was very hard to say goodbye. I wasn't ready to leave.

We (Pops and I) made it to Accra and eventually so did everyone else, albeit a couple of hours later. We had something to drink at a nearby restaurant and then we said goodbye to Godwin and I to Pops before heading in to get ready for our journey home.

It was a long journey home.

Accra to Frankfurt was long, although through the night so I slept some... but the 7 hour layover in Frankfurt was super long. Fortunately though, my VISA card worked and I (and the others) were able to get Big Macs at the McDonalds at 8am in the morning. It was really good.

We were surprised in the airport by 2 other Intercordians coming from Ukraine who were going to be on the same flight with us on our way home. It was so nice to see some familiar faces.

The 2nd flight felt like forever but we made it and quickly got our baggage and headed for our families. Mom and Dad were thrilled to see me and I them, and we booted it out of the airport as fast as we could - yet it was 5pm in Toronto on a Friday night, going North, AND there was a 4 car crash on the 400. It took a little while but we made it.

As we did when I came home from Ecuador, we went to Mr. Sub and got food for dinner.

It's now Sunday night and I've been home for 2 whole days. I've seen my best friends and my schedule is already packed until I go back to school. Tuesday-Thursday this week I have a reintegration seminar with all the other students in the program, it should be interesting, and I'm lucky it isn't far from home - only 45 min or so, so no long drives.

After the seminar I'll write my final post after I've had some time to reflect on all that has happened.

Thank you for your continued support - I'm glad you've been sharing this journey with me.

I'll post soon :)

Dede

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Coming Home

Hey everyone,

I can't believe this will be my final entry of my Ghana journey.

The next couple of weeks are extremely busy with travel and fun, so internet visits will be very low on my priority list as I wrap up my stay in Ghana... Here is what is planned.

This Thursday is the graduation ceremony for the school I have been teaching at. I will be installed as Queen Mother of the school [the first!] (which means I'll be wrapped in traditional kente cloth with large beads and a crown - I shared this experience last week at the graduation ceremony at the school that my friends are at in Sega - it was quite the experience and the pictures are phenomenal!).

Friday/Saturday is a festival in Big Ada which will commemorate the people who fought for this tribal existence and culture over the years through Nigeria down to Ghana.

Then on Sunday, 3 of us from the group will head North to a place called Kumasi. We will go visit some beautiful waterfalls as well as a monkey sanctuary (where people and monkeys live together).

On Tuesday or so we will head further north to a place called Tamale and to Mole National Park (where you can get within 20 m of elephants and other large and small animals! A real African safari!!!!) We'll spend a few days there then head to a place called Ada Foah (closer to home) where we will relax on the beach for 2-3 days to unwind. I will go back to Kpong on the 15th (Wednesday) to say my final goodbyes and then I fly on the 16th. My 'husband' will escort me to the airport from Kpong and I will meet up with the rest of the group there to get ready for our long journey home (*note* I arrive at 3:45pm in Toronto on a Friday afternoon... by the time I get my bags and the car it'll be closer to 5pm... on a Friday, driving north... rush hour is going to be brutal... especially after all those hours on the plane and the 7 hour layover in Frankfurt - I'll probably pass out in the car - that's my hope at least, or be so driven by adrenaline that I don't notice the 2-3 hours it'll take to get home!)

Like I said, it's going to be busy, but lots of fun.

I'm excited to pack so much into my last final weeks here, but no matter how much I pack into this end of the journey, it does not distract me from the sadness that accompanies my leaving this place and these people that have affected my life.

It's hard to put into words how it feels to be leaving. I have been trying to talk about my departure without 'leaving before leaving', meaning, my head and heart can't be gone quite yet from this place, there is still so much to discover, but I have to acknowledge that within a few weeks I will be getting on a plane and leaving this place.

The hardest part is answering 'when will you come back?' I don’t know, and I can’t promise anything because life gets in the way of some of the things I’d really like to do. It’d be so easy to promise to be back, to send supplies, to do all the things I would love to do, but realistically it just isn’t so. I’ll try, I’ll hope, I’ll do my best, but I can’t guarantee anything. It’s so hard.

I just want to say thank you to everyone who has read my blog over the last few months, it has been quite the journey and I feel so lucky that you have all come along for part of the ride. I appreciate it greatly and can’t wait to get home to show you the pictures that are associated with all the experiences I have had – which are countless at this point. I know that this has been a journey of a lifetime and although it hurts so much to leave, it will be part of me for the rest of my life.

Today is a busy today – I visited Akosombo dam, which is the main source of power generation for the country, I am currently at the internet cafĂ©, and then I have a wrap-up debrief meeting with Youth4Change this afternoon. Tomorrow is a packing day and Thursday is graduation… it’s moving so quickly that at times I lose the hours as they pass by, but at the same time try to take in as much as I possibly can. What’s that old saying, you don’t truly appreciate something until it’s gone. I’m trying to acknowledge that and take advantage of what I have now before it really is gone.

I’m going to go on my way, back to Kpong and enjoy the rest of my experience here in Ghana as it comes to an end. If anyone has any dire messages for me, please call mom and she’ll pass the message along – if there isn’t anything else I’ll see a great majority of you when I return in a few weeks.

Wa ma kpe (We shall meet)

Rasta (after 7 hours of getting my hair braided!) Dede xox

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Time is Flying and Soon I'll Be Home

Hey everyone!!
The time is just flying and I am trying to make the best of what little I have left... it really is coming up fast, especially since I have so many plans within the next few weeks before making the trip back home.

Firstly, a few things that have happened that I just have to tell you about!
I was sitting one day with my family at the house, hanging out like usual and one of my host-brothers brought me a letter and set it in my lap. It was addressed "Dede Amanda" with the school's address. I didn't have a clue who it was from, so I opened it up. There was a picture of a man as well as a letter. I didn't know who the young guy was (my age maybe?) and didn't recognize the name on the letter. When I opened it up, it was a letter from a guy who was passing through my town and saw me teaching at the school one day when he was visiting his mum. He wants to be friends (whatever that means) and said that he has no bad intentions (I'm sure - who would say they DO have bad intentions?). It was really eerie. A 'good
Samaritan' he said gave him my name (probably one of my students) and so he decided to solicit friendship from me via a letter. Odd - but somewhat familiar - anyone heard of dating websites? Although the people around me said it was strange that he had done it without coming to introduce himself first. Another amusing experience in Ghana!! We all had a good laugh.

On a different note, I have found different radio programs at night on my short-wave radio that I brought, from Canada. It's been really great to listening to the news to hear what's going on and to hear that familiar Canadian 'accent' that I really don't notice until I'm away from home. It's called The Link: Canada International. It's been refreshing and a little taste of home right before I go to bed (around 9pm my time - 5pm your time).

Last week I had an activity with Youth4Change all about stigmatization and how to treat people who have a terminal disease (in the case of HIV/AIDS). I taped signs on their back (about 18 students) that said "HIV-POSITIVE" and had them sit in class and spend the day that way. They were to learn what it is like to be treated differently. What a lesson it turned out to be!! They told me at our lesson that afternoon that they were beaten (e.g. slapped on the back where their sign was) and insulted, people refused to sit with them, share seats, or share objects with them...overall they were treated very poorly and it wasn't a good feeling. I asked them how they felt about knowing 40 million people in the world wear the HIV-POSITIVE sign every day of their lives - we had a good talk and it was an amazing lesson, I'll never forget it.

Last Friday I went to Accra (the capital) with Pops to go to the Ghana AIDS commission. I had been playing phone tag with them (more so one-sided as they didn't ever call ME back, but I called numerous times), in order to get educational materials for Youth4Change. I headed down there, met with the public relations guy, he apologized profusely and sent me on my way with so many materials that my arms and back ached the whole next day. I was so excited, and yesterday I shared the materials with the group who were thrilled :) It's been a great experience and I've been trying to do the most that I can for them in order that they are set up with resources and information for when I leave. I'm also waiting on t-shirts and a banner that should have been done yesterday, but may come tonight and HOPEFULLY tomorrow for our big lesson... *fingers crossed* I really want to show up with our shirts, looking professional and organized ;) (Canadian culture coming through there...)

Next week I'm going to Sega for their school graduation, then one or two of the girls will come back with me to see where I've spent my summer, that'll be nice to show them around! Then the next week we will have a goodbye party for me (the 1st), our graduation is on the 2nd and then I leave on the third to go to a 2 day festival - HUGE! On the 6th, 4 of us are taking a 15 hour bus ride north (through the night) to Mole National Park (SAFARI!!) which is SOOO exciting, I can't wait!! But the 15 hour hike is not something I really want to think about right now. We'll spend a few days there, meeting the animals and whatnot before heading back. We may spend a day at the beach, I'll head back to my hosts quick to get some things and then I'm heading home!! It's busy and crazy!! No time to be sad... but, it's there, I can feel it already. I'm not really ready to leave, but I'm preparing for it as I want to see everyone at home and share my experiences and pictures face-to-face.

Anyway, the internet is being SUPER slow so I have to post this with 6 min left or it won't go!
I'll be back soon hopefully before heading off on the next adventure before heading home!!

Miss you bunches but will see you all soon!
Dede

Monday, July 9, 2007

Wow. I've been in Ghana for 2 months now, 2 whole months of experiences of a life time. Lots of lessons, discussions, excursions, relationships, and the like... there's been a lot of everything really!

It's been a couple of weeks since I've updated so I made it a top priority to get to the internet cafe today. Luckily for me, there is electricity this morning, that's not always a guarantee. I have the cell number of the guy who runs the place so I call him and ask before I head out, it's much easier this way. I le ni. (I am smart).

So, last weekend was the July 1st weekend, and what a weekend I had! A friend of mine, Yahaya came home from school for the weekend, which was very exciting. He and I get along better than some others, because we both think similarly - with an open mind in regard to the world around us. I have found that some others are very strict in their beliefs and views and are unwilling to compromise. Yaya and I have an understanding and it makes for great entertainment sometimes!

We spent an hour or so one day playing Frisbee in the school 'playground' and the children had such a blast chasing the Frisbee once we had dropped it. The kids are fascinated with everything I have to bring, especially bright red coloured frisbees that say "Canada". It was great fun. Yaya and I walked to town at least 1/2 a dozen times just for something to do. People began calling him my husband, and we had a good laugh - he might as well be, I get harassed less by other men when they think he's my husband. There is much more respect shown towards a married woman (perhaps the men are afraid of the husband?). It's been interesting to see.

Yaya also helped me with my wash one morning. I have learned that I cannot wash large sheets very well. I get wet, the sheets get all tangled and nothing really gets cleaned... so I handed it over to him and he took the lead. I was very appreciative because it would have taken me forever to get it all sorted out, and he made it look so easy. He's got 22 years experience!

We also headed to a soccer game (sorry - football game) one afternoon and cheered for the local team. We won, 1-0.

One morning I went with Pops and his 4th born son, Joshua to the internet cafe to help them set up a website. Currently it is a work in progress: http://freewebs.com/newagekps I hope it works! We'll put a picture and description up soon.

I've had the fortunate opportunity to build such trusting and honest relationships with people that I have learned so much about the inner struggles of people in my community. The woman living beside me, Tina is a perfect example. She dated her husband for two years before they married. She got pregnant after 2 years with him as his wife, then found out he had, had another wife and children (he was divorced) - and she now became responsible for his daughter. He now works away from home and is unfaithful. Tina had her sister-in-law (a policewoman) follow him one night. Now, this poor woman is afraid of getting HIV or some other disease from this man. She's also afraid of getting pregnant again but there isn't much she can do but abstain from him (which isn't exactly encouraged in this culture). Her plan is to refuse him until he demands divorce, in hopes that she'll receive a little money from him (demanded by the court) because she has a 7 month old baby. It's a terrible situation and we've talked about different options she has... but she has no money and the burden of it all would rest on her father.. she's 27. She'd like to get contraceptives (whatever is available, we don't really know) but the money really is a problem.

Another woman I met, has one leg, and barely manages to sell enough oranges and toffee to support her two young sons, one of which has currently got malaria. I don't know if she has the money to get him the medicine, or if he'll make it through at all. I guess we'll see.

It's heart-wrenching scenarios like this that take a toll on me because I feel helpless and want so much to do all that I can to help these people. The worst part, is that this exists all over the country, the continent and the world, but what is my role and how can I help? There are some big questions I've been struggling with and it's been a fight everyday to try and understand how much I take my own luxuries and life for granted.

On a lighter note, 15 of us headed to a beach on Monday, July 2nd. July 1st was their Republic Day so we had Monday off. The beach was great, we had a lot of fun in the waves, although my legs got cut up pretty bad from some of the rocks. My "husband" was so worried about me, but I insisted that I'm a strong woman and everyone let it go. Everyone really looks out for me here, they really want to ensure I'm happy and safe from harm. There were 3 women and the rest men. We had a great time and had sand everywhere for at least 2 days afterwards!

I taught the Youth4Change group about condoms last week and it went over sooo well! Their ages range from 9-15 so it was quite the experiment to play with condoms, especially in a totally different culture. We went over how to use them, how they protect us from diseases and pregnancy, and then filled them with water and had a few good laughs. It was a lot of fun. Next week the group will be giving their first presentation/lesson to an entire public school! I just found out about this, this morning when I went to speak with the headmaster of the school. Next week!? That's not a lot of time!! We have a lot to do so I have to ensure we are organized and on our way for next week.

Today I've got a meeting with Y4C in order to tell them about the lesson, I have to head back to Kpong before the end of the school day. My two classes this morning had exams so I had no where to be, so I took the opportunity to come to the internet cafe while I had the time, and there was electricity. This week is going to be busy!

Today - meet with Y4C, buying material for a banner I'm having made for them
Tuesday - official Y4C lesson - GREAT stigmatization lesson I have planned for them!!
Wednesday - market to pick up some more fabric
Thursday - Y4C meeting
Friday - tie up loose ends
Saturday - going to visit Yaya at school - have a look around campus
Sunday - Godwin (our coordinator) is coming to see me as it's been a few weeks since I've seen him and I've had quite the cold to struggle with so he's coming to check up on me :)

Anyway - 1 minute left and I've got to get going!

I'll be back in a week or so!!

Lots of love and special hellos to everyone reading, thank you for following me on my journey!!

Dede

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Beginning the second half of the journey

Family is a wonderful thing isn't it? At least most of the time right? Well, it's been a week since I've updated my blog, and I was going to wait until next week to do it, but that "family" thing kept getting in the way, and I could hear mom's voice in the back of my head... "Why haven't you updated your blog? We're waiting to hear from you, people are asking questions, can you update your blog, we like reading it, everyone does..." and so on. So, I'm here, for the most part, because I don't want mom calling me to remind me that I haven't updated... ;)

The last week has been busy!!

I took off to Sega Thursday morning (after having a hasty lunch of "watse" [rice and beans, pronounced wachie] from a bag - I LOVE eating food out of a bag, it just seems to taste better!). It took 3 hours, which was expected, just because I have to change tro-tros and then walk a bit, and then get a taxi... it's a little bit of a hike, and the girls sometimes don't realize how much it DOES take to meet them where they live (and the $ too!).

We left to Accra (the capital of Ghana) early Friday morning, in order to find a bus to Cape Coast. In total it took about 5 hours or so from Sega to get to Cape Coast, a hike in a bus, that's for sure.

We arrived around 2:30pm and checked into a hotel that we had reserved. It was nice, and we even had our own washroom with running water!! THAT was exciting in itself, although, I'm used to not having it now - reminds me of living in Ecuador 3 years ago.

Right away we headed out to Cape Coast Castle. We were planning to see Elmina Castle as well but time did not permit - I was a little disappointed but one castle was plenty to see and I'm happy I got that opportunity to do so. We toured the castle, including a museum. It was one of the hardest things I've ever seen in my life.

We saw the dungeons where hundreds of men and women were held captive as slaves for 6-8 weeks before being shipped out, crammed together in the ships for the long journey across the Atlantic (MANY did not survive). The female dungeon could "hold" 350 women and children... it was dark, damp, dreary, and absolutely horrid. It was solid walls with 2 VERY small "skylights" that provided barely enough light to see the ground. The men's dungeon could "hold" 1000 men... and it was no better, although bigger. It was awful. I went and stayed in the male dungeon for a long time by myself, in the dark, in order to reflect. I nearly cried as "Amazing Grace" kind of floated through my mind. I can't imagine what the conditions must have looked like for these men and women, away from their families, in these horrific conditions, barely staying alive in order to be shipped like animals across the world to be owned. The feeling I got was sickening.

The hardest part of the castle was called "The Cell". And it was a small, dark room where slaves were kept who were 'rebellious' (in other words, slaves who were merely fighting for their freedom). They were locked up with no food, no water, no ventilation and with 3 SOLID doors separating them from the rest of life... they were left to die. Standing in that room with a number of other tourists, in the dark, was the most chilling experience I have ever had. It was absolutely terrifying, and as crazy as it sounds, I could honestly feel the presence of the thousands of men and women who had died in that room... for fighting for their basic rights to be treated as human beings, and not objects. We left that room feeling sick and overwhelmed with emotion. It was so hard, and I'll never forget it.

We also saw a lookout post where signals were passed from one fort to another.

When we got back to the hotel, we finished the evening with a beer ontop of the hotel rooftop where we all had a great meal... we needed a few beers just to ease the unsettling experience of the day... I could've used 5... maybe more.

The next day (Saturday), we all were up early to head to Kakum National Park. We bought our breakfast from the vendors at the bus station (as we usually do) and I ate porridge, out of a bag... bad idea as it was REALLY hot and I was burning myself all over the place! But it was a neat experience nonetheless, although one I won't probably do again!

We toured a small museum about the park before heading on the hike up a very rough walkway of rocks and roots. We were heading to a large Canopy walkway (a bridge hanging above the trees - highest point 40 m). It was 350 m long, made up of 5 different bridges separated by large posts to support them. It was GREAT entertainment! It was a little scary but very very cool to be above the trees and to see so far. There were even monkeys below us!! I couldn't see them though, but a couple of the girls did. They were moving through the trees, and I could see that! And you could hear them, they sounded like they were screaming! The walk was really awesome and I'm really glad we got to do it, so high up and swinging back and forth.

After the bridge we went on a walk through the semi-insidious forest, 90% humidity (man was it hot...) and we learned about a number of different natural medicines taken from trees and plants from the area. It was neat, although hot and sweaty.

We had lunch at the restaurant and then took a tro-tro back to Cape Coast. When we got back, we wandered around the market looking at material and beads and whatnot. There was a small band wandering through the market as well, raising money for something, I took pictures and gave them a little something.

We got back to the hotel, and as we were tired from all the walking, we relaxed, played cards, had dinner and had a few drinks to enjoy the beautiful evening. In the morning we had french toast, and it was the best damn french toast I have ever had... we all DEVOURED our food, it was sooo good. We got ready after breakfast and headed back to Accra.

Because it was Sunday, there were no buses for me to go to Kpong from the station we were at, so I jumped into a tro-tro with some guys who were going to another station... I went alone, it was fine, an adventure, and they didn't charge me for the ride. I took a tro-tro home and was happy to get back.

Oh, along the way I taught HIV/AIDS lessons to anyone who would listen, or who had questions after they asked what I was doing in Ghana... that's a few people now I've talked to about it, in the oddest places. Internet cafe, bus, house at the end of the street, bus station...

The rest of this week has been really quiet, nothing really going on, although I AM getting a couple of dresses made and I'm really looking forward to seeing them. I hope they turn out nice!! I'm sure they will, one already did that was made for me last month.

I'm looking forward to this weekend, I can't believe it's going to be July 1st! The Canadian embassy here has invited us all down to celebrate, on Monday, but I won't be around. I'm going with the guys I live with to the beach to celebrate their July 1st holiday - Republic Day. It should be great fun! A good friend of mine, Yahaya (Yaya) is coming home from school this weekend too so he'll join us all at the beach. I'm looking forward to going away with these guys, they're hilarious and we're like family.

Today was pretty quiet - I taught a class and then Youth4Change. It's really coming along and I'm really trying to put the power into their hands. It's their group so they are going to run it, it's been tough, I'll admit, but it's coming along and we're going to be doing some presentations in a few weeks to local groups in the community (I hope!). We'll see how it all unfolds. I'm going to make them a banner and maybe buy them t-shirts... we'll see how it goes, maybe we'll do a fundraiser... no, that's too much.

I'm doing great, things are really going well and I'm really part of the community. My dangme is more recognizable and I'm understanding much more, although we speak a lot in English (thankfully). The people I live with are taking great care of me, the school looks out for me and I'm just taking it all in. I can't believe I'm over 1/2 way into this journey and now it's the heading towards the end - even if it's 6 weeks away, I can still feel it, and it's already sad. The relationships that I've built will forever change me and I am thankful for them. I'm going to miss Ghana, so I have to make the best of it I can while I'm here.

I hope home is well and nothing disastrous has happened, I'll admit, I haven't a clue what's going on in Canada... although my little short-wave radio has provided a little news from around the world... something big with Palestine and the USA? I'm trying to follow along where I can, but it's just not easy.

I'm thinking of everyone, and miss everyone muchly. I'm so excited to share my experience with you when I return!

Until next week, or so.... (mom better not call...)

Lots of love,

Dede xox

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Almost 1/2 Way!

Hello hello!

Time for a Dede-does-Africa update :)

So, I've realized that African heat, really is... hot. It's the rainy season right now so it's actually quite cool compared to the dry season, and you can tell the Ghanaians are enjoying it... for me, it's still hot, and I sweat when it's raining regardless. Although, I must admit, sometimes the rain cools everything down so much that I can sleep well and relax without having to constantly wipe the sweat from my brow. It's better than -30 during our winter though!!

This weekend I'm heading to Cape Coast, which is in the south western side of Ghana. I'm VERY excited as I get to see Elmina Castle. It was the largest port for the slave trade hundreds of years ago. This year is the bi-centennial anniversary of the abolition of slavery - so there is a lot of history to be explored at this site. Because this port is on the coast line, there was a lot of trading of varying goods all those years ago as well. It's a very fascinating place and although it's a good 7 hours by bus (I'm talking, sitting so close to your fellow passenger that you can feel their body heat), I'm really looking forward to it! I'll be sure to write about it when I get back! Tomorrow I'm heading to Sega to meet up with the rest of "Team Canada" and then early Friday morning we'll be on our way! I'll get back Monday afternoon sometime I'm sure, and make it back to Kpong for Tuesday. It's a good solid trip.

I can't believe that next Wednesday will be 1/2 through my trip here. It's really amazing. Some days I can't believe I've been here for only 6 weeks because it feels like I just got here and just finally got into a groove! I'm already sad to be leaving, it's going to be very hard to leave everyone and everything that I have experienced. I don't really want to think about it.

The HIV/AIDS group that I've developed in the community (at the school I'm at) has got a name now, it's official -

Youth4Change
HIV/AIDS Educators

Respect for All
Responsibility for Knowledge
Strength through Unity
Courage to Fight

We're very excited and I'm trying to cram as much information into these students as I can so that they are able to teach when I leave. Tuesday meetings are lecture days, where I provide the information, and they take notes. Thursdays are practice days where they have to teach each other and review the material. Hopefully everyone will really know all of this material in order to teach others when I leave. Two of the teachers at the school are going to take on the responsibility of monitoring the group when I head home, I'm grateful for their help and that they have the same vision for an HIV/AIDS free world that I do. I'd like to get t-shirts printed and maybe a banner for the students so I may dip into some of my funds for that. I want them to be united and clear in their cause for others to see. We'll see how it pans out.

I've been slowly transitioning into the whitest Ghanaian in my community. At one point, I was wearing a wrap, eating a common food with my hands (banku), listening to African music, speaking the native language, and even getting some new colour! I was amazed, and everyone has seen and supported this Africanization I've been undergoing ;) Hopefully I'll be able to transfer some of it to my behaviour at home, it's fun and different, and most of the time is WAY more convenient than some of the things we do at home. I love wearing my bright wraps, I'm excited to bring a number of materials home to wear :)

On a side note - I scraped my knee the other day, I was playing with a baby named Emanuel, he's 7 months old and I was really close to the ground. My knee hit the hard rocky ground and everyone gasped right away. I'll admit, it hurt more than I let on but it's healing. With a little sun, it won't even be noticeable.

Life is good and I'm really building some great relationships, some of which are strictly because of the way I walk to school, or along the roadside. I hear my name, Dede, called at least 100 times a day. Someone is calling me, or a child sees me and wants to say hello, or just to get my attention. The lady two houses down sells oranges and I see her often. The lady along the roadside sells me my toilet paper and some crackers and soap... and a couple of young men sell me my pre-paid phone card for my cell phone here - yes I have a cell phone, it really wasn't that expensive and allows me to keep in contact with some friends here (both Canadian and Ghanaian) as well as my family. It's also a source of security for when I travel alone for my host family - if there's a problem (or perhaps I get seriously lost somewhere - which hasn't happened yet thankfully) I can call them and someone will rescue me if I need it. I enjoy having it and will leave it for someone here to have when I leave. I plan on leaving the majority of my things, clothes, and some odds and ends that really would be appreciated by the people I live with, I know they'd appreciate it.

My host dad, Pops, is really happy with how things have been going with me here and has mentioned that he'd like to have 2 students stay with his family next year (in May, the next group of Intercordia students). I'll have to communicate that when I get back home to the coordinators.

I learned that Pops owns the house that we all live in and rents the various rooms out to individuals or families. I also learned that when people come to get water from our one pipe line, they pay per bucket of water they take - 200 cedis per bucket (which really is maybe a cent in CND dollars). I hadn't noticed that before, that people pay for their water from the house, as Pops has to pay the utility bill at the end of the month - interesting! Now that I've become more familiar with my surroundings and the happenings of the house, I'm better able to notice some of the smaller details.

Pops has a computer - he runs 3 schools (mind you one school only has 50 students, and no walls and half dilapidated chalkboards [which is flat wood boards covered in battery acid - real dangerous don't you think?]). I've used it a few times to help start writing an assignment I have due in August. I enjoy working on it while I'm in the context that I'm writing about, it's extremely helpful.

I hope everyone is well and enjoying June, nearly July!! Next weekend I'm going to the beach with some of the guys I live with to spend the day having some fun. It's Republic Day on July 1st and Canada Day for me, so we'll celebrate them both by taking a mini-vacation, it should be fun!

I miss you and will be in touch soon,

Much love,

Dede

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Over a Month In!

Hello Everyone!

Nye nge saminya lo? (Are you all well?)

I'm sorry it has taken so long to update my blog. I've been getting harassing emails from people to update them on the happenings in Ghana, so here I am.

I re-read some of my journal entries trying to come up with some things to write about here but I soon realized that there is just too much (it must be why I'm nearly done filling up two journals!). I may have to buy another one while I'm here, I've been writing like crazy!

So, I thought I'd just share some of the things I have come across while I've been here,what I've seen lately at least.

First, and foremost, there are naked children everywhere... something I haven't exactly seen at home. The body truly is an instrument here, and is used as such. If you have to pee, you easily can find a bush and go, no questions, no looks, nothing. Men let loose right on the street, facing away from everyone thankfully. I was on a bus coming back from Sega a week or so ago and a couple of women jumped off the bus, ran behind it, hiked up their skirts and relieved themselves, in full few! What a difference from home! It's rather refreshing I'll admit because here the body is really used for all that it can be. I've never seen so many people carry so many things on their heads. The other day, a woman set her basket down in our courtyard for my host-mum to see...she had a hundred live crabs, or more! People carry anything and everything on their heads, I can't believe it, I tried carrying water and it was brutal! Mind you, I've had 21 years of NO practice, so they've got that over me.

Funny story - I was sitting in my room, in my chair, watching the happenings of the house when Pops brought a sheet of cloth for me to hangup at my door for some privacy. Low and behold, the one book I was trying to forget over the summer appeared before my face for the next 2 moths, a Harry Potter bed sheet. I couldn't stop laughing. That wasn't the only 'home' reminder since I have been here though. If you can believe it, a man came walking into our courtyard to visit someone, and he was wearing a Toronto Maple Leafs jersey!! I ran after him to take a picture, the poor man, I probably scared him half to death as he didn't really seem to understand me.

I've been working on my dangme, it's a tough language let me tell you, but I'm trying and people are impressed. They are often shocked when they hear me speak their native language. One of the problems though, is that there are many native languages here, so many people try and speak to me in theirs, and I just don't understand them. I even started a dangme book in order to help me remember the language and to help me learn it. It's coming along, I'm sure it will be fun to look at when I get home to share it with everyone!

Last week I had my first meeting with the HIV/AIDS group I've been trying to develop. I had so many students interested in participating that I had to choose 4 students from each of 5 classes, so 20 students. I tried to explain the reasoning for the program, some of my goals and hopes as well. It's tough because I don't know how much they all understand. Although, the teachers have chosen students from their classes that are excellent students, so I'm sure they understand more than I give them credit for. The problem I've run into though is that students seem really shy and fearful of being wrong. I wouldn't doubt them, when they use a cane in the school.

Teachers cane their students for not getting an answer right after a lesson, for misbehaving, or for no good reason at all. It's very hard to watch, and I often close the door to the teacher's office so that I don't have to watch it. The teachers know how I feel about it as we have had discussions but it's hard because my role here isn't to impose my values, beliefs and culture on these people. I'm here to participate, to learn, and to observe. I've said my piece and it's still so hard. The government has said that caning is no longer acceptable in schools, but the private schools still use this method of punishing. If a government official were t o come to the school, they would have to throw away their sticks. It's been tough.

Just to wrap up as I'm running out of time (today's internet has been slow), I've been buying material to use to make clothes - it's so cheap, and the patterns and colours are beautiful. I've had one dress made so far, it was bought for me from my host family - it will be very pretty in the fall.

I also washed my clothes by hand for the fist time yesterday, and rubbed some skin right off my fingers. They hurt today! It's going to take some practice to get it down, but I'll get it! I've got some great video of me washing.

I hope everyone is well, I'm thinking of everyone, and although I haven't had a chance to respond to everyone, I'm thinking of you. The internet is so slow today, I've been here for 2 hours and I'm ready to head out soon. Today was the first day I've come here by myself, I've got to figure out how to get home now ;) I'll be fine!

Kimi, Dave, Lisa, Mom, Dad, all other family members and friends, I love you and miss you and will see you all shortly! For those who are keeping up to date with my adventures, thank you for reading, I appreciate your support!

Much love,

Dede

Thursday, May 31, 2007

3 Weeks and Continuing Adventures

Hey everyone,

It's that time again to update you on what's been going on this last week.

Let me tell you, there has been so much that has happened that it's really hard to pick and choose what to write about - even in an hour's time!! So, I'll give you what I can, a brief summary if you will :)

The funeral we went to on Saturday was nothing like I've ever seen... it is absolutely opposite of a typical funeral at home. It started early in the morning, piling about 50 people into a bus that really should have only carried 20. People were sitting on top of one another, standing, hanging out of windows and the like to ensure that we could get everyone in. It was crowded to say the least. I had a window seat so it was nice - I got a little fresh air, where others were packed like sardines and sweating 'African style'. When we got to the funeral site, someone's house, we followed a long line of people into a small room where the body was being displayed. Let me tell you, I was not prepared for what I saw. It was a young woman (I was told later she was 29), displayed on a large table, surrounded by flowers and decorations, wearing a white dress (almost wedding dress-like). I wasn't exactly prepared to see my first dead body like that... especially as we all toured around. Women sat around the small room and they were pleased to see us visit the family. Two women were dramatically flailing scarves over the body to ward away flies - she had been dead for a month, but they had kept her in the morgue so that they could prepare the funeral. I later learned that some bodies are kept in the morgue for up to 2 years - not something familiar to me at home.

We were even allowed to take pictures of the young woman, but I couldn't bring myself to do it, I don't think anyone else could either - very taboo in Canada. We spent the next couple of hours surrounded by people in a party-like setting, with music (a live band), singing, dancing, and speeches. It was similar to a wedding, aside from some of the weeping family members. The whole atmosphere however was quite upbeat, I couldn't believe it. I have pictures and some video to show when I get home. The atmosphere was extremely alive. After the funeral ceremony we ended up walking a great distance to the gravesite. It was really hot, the sun was at it's peak (noon - not the best time for everyone to trek a long distance), and I ended up burning my shoulders a little, even though I had my sunscreen on. We made it and we watched the casket be placed into the ground, and a few words were said. By then, people had started departing and heading back to their respected routines. I heard two different stories in regard to how the woman had died, one being that she had been found in the shower area, collapsed with something like a heart attack... and the other, that she was very sick and that was the end of that. I don't know which is true, there's no autopsy so there's no real way to know for sure. She left a 2 year old and a 5 year old behind. It was quite sad. I don't know about a husband, the ceremonies were in all languages but English so it was hard to tell what exactly was being said.

After the long trek back down the road to where we had started from, we picked a cab and took it to Ada Foah, a place not far from Sega (where Godwin, the coordinator lives - sometimes I forget how much I have explained in these, as I have no time to go back and read them). Let me say this, if paradise had a name it would be Ada Foah (or at least the little beachfront hotel we found there). It was absolutely stunning, screen saver worthy if there was ever a definition. We trekked through SO much sand to get there, but the walk was worthwhile. The palm trees, the ocean, the little thatched huts, it was all worth it. I haven't seen anything as gorgeous as this place, and we spent the night for 70,000cedis - 35,000 per person - 2 to a room, which is approximately $4 or so. Paradise never came so cheap! It was picture perfect, with white sand, roaring waves, and a beautiful estuary to swim. We spent the rest of Saturday in the sun, and enjoying the heat. We were all there except one, Natalie who had some things she was doing at her host placement that weekend. Meghan and I shared a room which consisted of a chair, and a mattress with a sheet on it that was directly on the sand... we had to be careful of crabs walking around and crawling on the bed. Although she and I did not feel any in the night, Heidi, next to us in our small thatched hut, said she felt some form of shell legs on her at some point in the night. Something I'm glad I didn't have to deal with ;)

We were celebrating Heidi's birthday so we had a few beers and enjoyed the evening by a roaring fire watching a number of local children (in costume mindyou) do a dance to some rhythmic drumming - it was quite neat to see, regardless of how tired I was from the sun. I crashed around 10:30pm, which is really late compared to when I usually go to bed, 7:30-8pm. The next day, we played in the huge ocean waves, trying not to let them take us away with them as the undercurrent was extremely strong, a little scary at times. All of us got thrown a few times by them back to the beach, dragging a few parts of the body along the sand - a little painful too, but a lot of fun regardless. The sun wasn't out Sunday, but it was still quite warm, until it rained. And boy did it rain, it just poured and cooled the whole place down so quickly. I was actually quite cold and put two shirts on, a huge difference from the day before when my skin seared in the sun! Meghan got near hypothermia she was so cold ;) She was wrapped in everything we could find, it wasn't exactly pleasant, but no one thought to bring more than our comfy beachware since it had been so hot out, and no one wanted to pack sweaters in the SLIGHT chance that it may be cool. Oh well.

We took a boat across the water to the town to get a cab back to Sega. 9 of us packed into a small car made to fit 4 or 5. It was a tight squeeze but we managed and paid quite a bit less each because of it. If only the cabbies at home would let us do that!

Oh funny story - I don't know if I mentioned this already, but I found a dead wall-geko in my journal!! I closed the book one day and the poor thing got caught in between the pages and I found it later... oh it was disgusting and fascinating at the same time, because it was absolutely perfectly preserved in my book! You could see all the fingers and toes, the tail, everything so clearly. I would have kept it if it hadn't started to make everything smell so bad. I laughed so hard with Meghan when I found it - it was so gross but so cool at the same time. I'm glad I got rid of it, but I dedicated the page to it's memory - R.I.P. Wall Gecko I found in my journal...

There is so much going on in my head these days - I'm still struggling with my "kp" sound but it's coming along, and I'm learning alot in Dangme, surprisingly alot actually! My hosts are quite impressed, and often laugh, even though they're so proud and so pleased that I'm learning so much! It's been great entertainment. I also find myself struggling with what my role is here in this community. The teachers cane the students (wack them with big sticks) for a number of different reasons. I really don't like it, and they know it, but I'm struggling with what my responsibility is in saying something, or not saying something as I do not want to accentuate "cultural invasion". My intention is not to force my values, beliefs, etc. on the people I encounter, but to learn from them, to work with them, to establish relationships, not change the way they do things... but I'm personally struggling because it is hard to see children get wacked when they do not get an answer correct. I'll have to do some more self reflection and reading, and talking about it in order to really understand what my role is here in this context.

On a lighter note, I'm getting some really nice colour! I joke with everyone that by August I'll be black if my skin keeps getting any darker!! I've also told everyone that I want to be able to carry a bucket of water on my head without my hands, carry a child on my back, and learn as much Dangme as I possibly can. Those are 3 important goals for me.

Oh, and one big one; I am developing a group for HIV/AIDS awareness in the school. The goal is to have a group of student educators who are capable of speaking about HIV/AIDS to their peers as well as to others in the community. I think that it is crucial that students are able to speak about HIV/AIDS and that they are able to pass their knowledge on to others in their community. Right now there is no such group, no such information is available. The ultimate goal would be to establish a group that will be able to continue each year, to ensure that HIV/AIDS education persists over time. I often tell the students as I talk to them, that HIV/AIDS education is not only here because I'm here; when I leave, it will still be in Africa, in Ghana, in their community, and that they have the opportunity to do something about it. Some students are really interested in getting information. It'll take the whole rest of the trip to really get organized though, and to try and get these students comfortable speaking about HIV/AIDS, teaching it, and knowing it with confidence. It's a big goal, but I've got some supporters. I'd like to make a banner for them (about $10 or so) by the end of my stay as a gift, if all goes well.

I've got some healthy endeavours here - I'm excited.

I called my dad on his birthday on Monday - boy was he shocked, I don't think I've ever heard him so surprised, even over the phone I could tell! I miss my family and friends muchly, but I know everyone is doing well and that they are sending their love. Africa is sending it's love too, and these Ghanaians are wishing nothing but the best for everyone in Canada :)

Oh - on a side note, I found the mother spider that gave birth in my room last week... the one with a hundred babies all over my walls... I wasn't impressed with that, but killed them... I got the mother yesterday. I thought it was all said and done with until someone mentioned there was probably a father. Damn. I'll have to keep my eyes open for that one ;)

I'm not travelling this weekend, I'm looking forward to it actually - I just want to stay in Kpong, maybe visit the market again. I went briefly yesterday to check it out. I have to take a tro-tro to get there, but it really isn't too far. Children were touching me though in the market, literally walking up to me and running their hands down my arms - white skin feels different? It was a little eerie but I just shake my head and roll my eyes at it all.

I'd really like to get some material from market, I'm sure I'll be able to find some nice pieces to make a few dresses out of. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled, there are some beautiful designs.

Anyway - I hope all is well with everyone - June is around the corner, I hope summer is slowly making it's way towards you all :) Tomorrow's the full moon, I'll see it in Ghana (mind you a few hours earlier than you), but if you've got the chance, take a look, and I'm thinking of you and wishing you nothing but the best.

I'll be in touch soon!

Much love,

Dede xoxo

Friday, May 25, 2007

Weekend Adventure

Hello everyone!!

I can't believe I'm updating my blog so soon again!! It was only 2 days ago that I got to share a small peak into my African adventure.

Well, I'm back and I'm going to try and cram as much as I can in but we'll see, when it comes to actually sitting down to the computer, my mind kind of goes blank - there's just too much to think of!!

Well, if I didn't mention last time, I have a local name that I go by, instead of "blefono" (meaning white person), or Madam (for the teachers). It's "Dede" (deh-deh), meaning first-born female. The house has taken to it and I scold anyone who calls me by blefono because I am more than my skin colour. hehe To say "my name is, Dede" in Dangme you say, "a tse mi kee, Dede" (sounds like: "ah cheh me keh, Deh-deh"). My knowledge of the language is really coming along - I'm trying my best, that's for sure, and although it's not easy - and it is NOT easy, I'm having a good laugh anyway.

I'm in Sega today - the place where I started from - I left at 6:30am this morning or so and took a bus from Kpong to a place called the Ada junction - where I got a taxi to Sega. Cost about 5 bucks in total and took an hour and a half or so. I'm spending the day in Sega and going to a funeral tomorrow (a big deal here in Ghana - some coffins are made to look like different things that were characteristic of the deceased - eg. beer bottles, cows, fish, cell phones - they can be really neat!! - I'll be sure to get a few pictures of some of the really different ones!). After the funeral tomorrow, the group of us are heading to a place called Ada Foah. It's supposed to be beautiful, along the ocean... with beach huts. I'm looking forward to it, especially if it's hot tomorrow (always is, who am I kidding), because we'll be able to go swimming!! It has to be in the ocean or the fresh water bugs will get into our skin, and no one really wants to deal with that.... yuck. We'll be there until Sunday night probably and then I'll head back to Kpong on Monday.

I think I got a little sunburned today, first time since I've been here. Some local kids from Sega, Kevin, and I went for a walk this morning to a river to check it out. It was quite the walk! When we got there, the kids wanted to cross it in a sketchy looking canoe... something Kevin and I contemplated for quite some time before deciding to just go for it! A small kid came across the river and got each of us separately (fearing, we'd flip the boat into the parasite infested water) and we made it across successfully! We met a local family who live in mud homes, with thatched roofs. They were pleased to see us. They brought all of us coconuts - cut them up, and we drank coconut juice right from the shell! Then we ate 2 or 3 of them... we were a little worried how that'll go through our bodies in a bit... I guess we'll see!! The kids took us for a walk, and we came across a peanut tree, more coconuts, weird looking grasshoppers, and some eerie looking oxen (I don't think they were happy to see us). We managed to cross the river safely, no one falling in, or getting wet!! It was a great experience, something you'd pay a lot of $$ for I'm sure. A personal tour! I could go home satisfied with my African trip after this morning!

OH! This morning started adventurous in itself anyway! There was a truck that had flipped onto its side in the middle of the road in Kpong, and a police car had come down my tiny little road to get some wire stuff (to use to pull the truck), so we caught a ride with them to the bus station... Only white person in a police car, next to a guy with a scary looking gun... eek. Must have looked odd as we drived away - people wondering why the 'blefono' was in the car!! My host dad was with me, pops, so it was fine, just a little creepy sitting next to a guy with a gun. I was glad to get out of the car fast to get my bus early this morning.

Life is good - lots of different things happening around me, and there are plans to do some traveling around on the weekends with Godwin (our coordinator) so that we see what we want while we're here. He's going to be planning some of those trips soon. I'm happy to know that we'll get some travel in with a well-educated guide ;) An added benefit! It should be good :)

It's hot in the internet cafe, even though there is a fan going. I think I'm going to get something cold after this... that'd be nice... mmm fanyogo (frozen yogurt in a bag). OH! We drink our water out of small bags!! You bite the corner, spit away the edge and then drink! (Don't worry mom and dad, that $ that went for my braces, and head gear and all that stuff isn't being wrecked, I use scissors where I can!).

Anyway - thinking of you all, thank you for all the thoughts and prayers, and best wishes!!

Update again soon :)

Dede xoxo

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

2 Weeks In

Hello Everyone!!

I'm so happy I have the opportunity to visit an internet cafe with a good chunk of time to spend on my update!!

There is so much to say I really don't know where to begin, but I'll try and do my best to give you an idea of what my life is like here in Ghana.

I'm living in a house which is really 4 small concrete, one level buildings, attached to each other to form a square, with a courtyard in the middle... along the walls are rooms which different individuals or families live in. I have my own room which is comfortable - with a double bed and a small desk and two plastic chairs. My bug net is all set up and although it feels like it traps the heat IN my bed, it protects me from all the bugs that seem to be crawling around... nothing too scary yet - although I'm pretty sure a spider gave birth in my room, but I managed to kill most of the babies (they kinda creep me out).

My host family is one of 8 people - a pastor, his wife, and their children. There are about 30-35 of us in this "house" area - so lots of children, and it's NEVER quiet - keeps me busy!

I'm living on my own in the community called "Kpong" - I can't even pronounce it, there is no "kp" sound in English! And I'm learning the local language of Dangme. As far as I've been told, I'm doing very well and am the one out of the 6 Canadians that knows the most! It'll be entertaining to try and speak it at home. I ask lots of questions and try and learn as much as I can, even if I AM making a fool out of myself. They really enjoy teaching me, and so we laugh a lot. The English is pretty good too so there's no real problem communicating!

The food is really different. Usually something white (yams, rice, plantains and some red stuff with fish in it, not really sure what it is exactly - a sauce of some sort). We live close to Lake Volta, which is the largest man-made lake in the world, so we are very close to the fisherman - so, lots of fish!! I'm learning to like it.

The school I teach at is a private school that was started by the pastor I live with. He's got 3 schools in total. This one has about 400 students, the other has about 50, and I don't know the third. I've been to two and will teach where I can to both. I've even started HIV/AIDS awareness classes, and a question box for peopled who are nervous to ask questions in public. I'll also try and speak to a women's ministry, a public school, and at a Parent-Teacher Association Meeting - lots planned, now for organizing! I also want to start a club for students to teach other students about HIV/AIDS for when I leave.

I wake up every morning to roosters, weird birds (guinea fowls? that are REALLY loud), goats, dogs, cats, sheep and even screaming babies (no surprise).

We get electricity every other day or so, but I don't really use it much - at night I put a fan on if it's deathly hot, it helps keep me energized for the day if I sleep at night. We get our water out of a water spout at the side of the house. Not many people get a water spout in their area so we see MANY local people around our place getting their water. The most amazing thing I think I've seen is the carrying of anything and everything on their heads. It's incredible to see these children carrying such heavy loads! I'll have to learn how to do it, mind you most have been taught since they were very young, so they have the advantage over me!

The money here is called cedi(s) and it's very confusing. Approximately 9,400 = $1USD so all the amounts are off. When they say 3000 cedis I think it's a lot, but really it's nothing at all! It's something to get used to, and I'm getting there.

There is so much that has happened, so much to look forward to, and so much to share when I get back and I'm only 2 weeks into my journey.

I must say though, that I accomplished one goal that was set out for me by my best friend, Kimi. She wrote me a letter before I left saying that I was to plant a tree in Ghana, so that my roots are in Africa. Yesterday, I planted two mango trees - one for each of us, so that we can stay sweet, and grow old together. Miss you buddy!

The funniest thing happened the other day - I was writing in my journal, as I often am, and I was having some trouble opening a page because it was stuck to another one. When I opened it I found a wall gecko that got stuck between the pages and got smushed! I killed a wall gecko in my journal without even knowing it! I laughed so hard when I found it, but felt a little bad, I had no idea how it even got in there! It was a little one. I took a picture and got rid of it as it was making everything smell really bad... it was so funny though.

My typical day looks like this:
- Get up about 6:15am or so - when the sun comes up, the roosters stop crowing, and the children start making noise outside.
- Write in my journal to start the day and watch what's going on in the courtyard
- I have my breakfast brought to my room and I eat alone - usually sweet bread, tea, and an omlette sort of thing (good!)
- Then at 7:45am I head to school with David - one of the Pastor's sons who is a teacher (a number of them are)
- I find a class or two to teach, do some reading, work on some of my homework that I will have due in August (you know me, wanting to get on top of things as always!)
- Come home for lunch - usually the red sauce stuff and yams/rice, or sometimes plaintains (boiled)
- then I usually hangout with whoever is around the house - sit under some trees outside of the house in the shade, especially if its' really hot - some days are REALLY worse than others - after it rains though it is really cool and feels SO nice
- Sometimes I'll have a shower - if there's no running water, I get my water into a bucket and use that in a cement 4 walled cubicle - easy to do really - if there IS running water, the pastor installed a shower like thing for me, which was awesome, but I must admit don't use it all that often
- I have dinner alone - usually more red stuff or fried rice (really good)
- it gets dark around 7pm or so, the pastor has a t.v. in his room and we watch a little news to keep up to date with the happenings of Ghana - one of the questions one night was "Do you feel that the African leaders have failed the continent?" Would you believe it was almost always "yes"... hmm.. what does that say.
- then I usually head off to bed around 7:30-8pm and go to sleep. Yup, that early - trust me, the heat really wears you out!

I spent last weekend in Accra (the capital) with the other Intercordians, as well as a few other people we had met to celebrate someone's birthday. It was good fun, although I had only packed for the day, so when 3 days had passed I was really dirty and ready to head back to Kpong. We stayed at a hotel and 5 of us slept on 2 single mattresses - entertaining, but not made for good sleeping conditions.

This weekend we're heading to a place that I've heard is beautiful - the other girls know about it as they live closer. I live about an hour or so away from them so a ways away by tro-tro (think - mini van).

Anyway - life is good, enjoying my experiences, and laughing a lot - mostly at myself. I'm still excited to be here and to be able to really embrace the culture.

I hope to be able to post more often, now that I know how to get to the internet cafe (in a place called Atumpoco). It's not far from Kpong, a short bus ride away and 3000 cedis.

I'm sending my love to everyone, thank you for all the good wishes, it really means a lot to me!! The people here send their best to Canada too - they're so hospitable, I know I'll be back in the future (at least to see my Mango trees!!)

Love bunches,

Amanda

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

In Ghana!!

Wow - I don't even know where to begin but I don't have that much time so I'll keep it short and to the point. :) I'm in GHANA!!

It was a LOOOONG trip to get here though, my god... it seemed to take forever. The first AND second flights were 7 hours each and we had a few hours in between to kill in the Frankfurt, Germany airport (at least I can say I've been to Europe, albeit the airport... I was outside a little though so it wasn't all that bad). By the end of the travelling time, everyone was exhausted. The plane service was great though, ate lots (didn't know when we'd see that kind of food again), drank lots too, well, I had a bloody mary and a baileys with ice... just to say I did. :)

We got in last night just after 5:30pm (so 1:30pm your time), and drove 2 hours to where Godwin (our coordinator) lives. It was a long, bumpy ride. We made it though. It was really dark so it was hard to see anything at first, it was VERY intimidating and very very African simple... but we brought our bags in and met 2 other volunteers who are staying at the same place (they're from Switzerland). We could barely see anything but did our best and a lady made us rice and sauce for dinner. Let me tell you, when you're sweating buckets (at 28-30 degrees), and then eating really spicy food, it gets REALLY hot! It was so uncomfortable but we ate up regardless, we were tired and hungry.

The first night was a little rough with sleep, didn't really get more than a few hours I'm sure. It was soooo hot. I was protected by a bug net that entrapped the heat but kept the bugs out. Meghan and I shared a room outside of Godwin's place (which is kind of like a bungalo with no doors or windows, except for a few doors on the inside for privacy of a few rooms), so we weren't with the others but about 25 feet away.

Every noise we heard last night creeped Meghan right out and so I ended up laughing at and with her (but secretly fearing that something would come to get me too, I'm pretty sure we were convinced a lizard was making eerie noises along the ceiling). We managed and even had a 'shower' this morning. We each received a bucket of water and stood in a concrete/wood type of box... closed the windows and then bathed.. it was a pretty laughable experience. Had to make sure we dried ourselves to avoid the parasites... scary stuff. But worse than that one, was going to the washroom. Oh man. It's a wooden box that's relatively open with a shady kind of door. There are a couple of pieces of wood that surrounds a hole in the ground which you stand on and squat over to go pee. Brutal, but doable... it's got to be, I don't have any other choice!

We had porridge for breakfast this morning (hot - hard to eat when you're sweating at 6am). And then we toured the school and watched their morning worship.

We found out that 3 of us will be staying at this location and this school, and the other 3 will leave to 3 other villages and schools. I was one of the ones to stay but I traded with Meghan (because she doesn't think she can handle another move) and because I want a totally different experience, so I'll be changing villages later this afternoon, to a new school and a host family. Should be interesting, albeit maybe a little lonely if I'm not with anyone. We'll see!!

I don't know when I'll have access again to internet - Godwin wanted to make sure our families know we're safe and sound.

I'm sending my love, and lots of warm thoughts your way!!

Love bunches,

Amanda

Monday, May 7, 2007

It call comes down to today! Departure Day!

Gooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooood MORNING GHAAAAANA! (catch the reference?)

Ok, so I'm not there yet, but by tomorrow I will be. It's not 9:30am yet but I've got to shower, pick up a digital camera, have lunch, say goodbye to my best friend, and then BOOT it to the airport with my parents to check in for 2:20pm to catch my 5:30pm flight to Frankfurt, Germany!

Thank you everyone who's called or left messages the last few days, wishing me a safe and wonderful trip - your well-wishes will go with me throughout my 3.5 months, I really appreciate all the love (it'll sure come in handy in the really tough situations).

I've got a lot to do yet this morning but I just wanted to share that I am SOO excited, the day is finally here to start my adventure, and I'm so lucky to have so much support from all areas of my life!

The next you'll hear from me will be in Ghana!

Much love,

Amanda

Sunday, May 6, 2007

Departure tomorrow... TOMORROW!

So... tomorrow's the big day, "departure day". It's nearly here. *deep breath* Tomorrow I'm flying to Ghana... tomorrow, that's, soon... *reflective moment* I still can't believe it.

I'm honestly at a loss for words - I've written 4 different thoughts down and have deleted each one because I can't finish them. I'm feeling too many emotions at once to identify them individually. One second I'm thrilled, and the next second I'm asking what sane person would do this (especially with the lack of information I have)! Excited trumps nerves though, so that's good :)

Today will be spent tying up any loose ends - there aren't many really, I've been really organized and ontop of things - go me.

I'm going to pick up a digital camera for my coordinator in Ghana (he really needs one but doesn't really have access to them because they are so expensive in Ghana, so he's asked me if I would get him one and he'll pay me as soon as I get there - he wants to put pictures on the web about his international school! I'm willing to help out where I can).

Other than that, I'm going to ensure my laundry is done and put away; I'm going to make sure my pile of stuff that's going back to school in the fall is relatively organized and ready to go; I'm going to find my cell phone so my brother can use it this summer without it deactivating on me; I'm going to walk through each room in my house and embrace it (maybe go to bed early - I LOVE my bed); and I'm going to have a nice steak with mom and dad tonight for dinner. Sounds like a good last day to me - productive and reflective.

My best friend is popping over tomorrow morning to say goodbye, it'll be tearful - I'll try and hold it together for the two of us, but if she starts crying so will I, I'm going to miss her a lot.

It's nearly 10am, I better be off to start my day! :)

hmmm... what to have for breakfast... pancakes anyone?

Friday, May 4, 2007

Not tomorrow, or the next day, but the NEXT day...

Things are really coming together now, and it's very exciting!

Dad and I went out last night and picked up a couple of memory cards for my camera (now I can take LOTS of pictures without having to worry about space and uploading, and all that). We also picked up some bug spray (hardcore 30% DEET to protect against scary bugs and malaria mosquitoes), batteries (for my mp3 player - helps with homesickness at night when trying to sleep - I found when I was in Ecuador, falling asleep to a little Frank Sinatra put my mind at ease, at least for the first while, and then I found I was so tired I didn't need it!), and we even picked up some duct tape (you can use it for anything!).

I also spent the day packing. I was reminded by a fellow program participant (an Intercordian, as I call them), to be aware of the baggage weight allowances on my airline... 20kg. Trying to weigh my camping backpack on a small home scale was a little difficult, albeit thoroughly entertaining. I've still got quite a few kgs to use, as long as the scale is correct.

I'm having a hard time getting out of bed this morning - it's warm, and comfortable, and soft, and big, and those of you who know me very well know that I love my bed... and I will miss it over the summer. .. a lot.

Oh well, best get up and out today to run a few last minute errands (I need a beach towel yet).

Monday is coming up fast!

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

5 Days until Departure

Ok, so what I've learned is that day by day, my anxiety increases (I'm just kidding), although I AM getting a little more nervous and excited (same physiological response is it not?) as May 7th approaches.

Mom and I hit up Costco yesterday to ensure I have everything that I need in bulk, (everything from underwear to band-aids) - I'll be fine. It's a little tough, I admit, because I'm not working with much information, slim to nil actually. I don't know my host-family members, what they're home is like, or if there will be access to any amenities... I guess that's all part of the adventure this time around. Prior to Ecuador, I had a LOT of information, not so much this time.

I received an email this morning saying that the coordinator in Ghana, Godwin, will meet the 6 of us in the airport with an "Intercordia" homemade sign, that'll be neat. We'll spend our first night in Ghana with him, and the next day will be taken to our placements - not much time to adjust, that's for sure! I wonder how much English there will be. English is the official language of Ghana, as it was once a British colony, it only has been an independent country for the last 50 years (this year is the 50th anniversary of independence, although Independence Day is over, I hope I get to see some more celebrations!). But the more rural you get, I have a feeling the English decreases and the native languages emerge, there are quite a few. Dangme is the one I will most likely come across, I better get practicing!

5 days to go - 5 days to figure out the rest of my packing and to embark on my adventure!

yaa ba or (bye-bye)

Monday, April 30, 2007

One Week To Departure

I can't believe it. One week from this very moment and I'll be somewhere over the Atlantic ocean, hopefully nearing Germany, the first stop in my very exciting, and very tough journey to Ghana, West Africa. It's very surreal, I can barely speak to it. I've spent the last year preparing for this trip and yet, I feel that nothing will accurately prepare me for what I'm about to experience. I'm excited, and thrilled, and anxious, and nervous, and scared, and sick, and amazed, and... if you can name it, I've probably felt it. It's a little nauseating really.

I feel blessed and grateful to have this experience available , it really leaves me rather speechless. The people who have supported me have made this possible, and for all of them, thank you, I really appreciate it more than I can say. Without the financial support, the friendship, encouragement, and insurmountable love, I wouldn't be in this position today, to follow one of my dreams.

I have a feeling it will hit hard when I get off the plane and realize I'm in Africa... AFRICA - one of the places I've wanted to visit since I can remember. I'm so excited... and yet constantly reminding myself not to romanticize the continent - it's no Lion King, but it will be beautiful.

I'll be living and volunteering in a rural village outside of the capital city, Accra, for 3.5 months (102 days - but who's counting...). I'll be staying with a host-family, embracing their life and culture on a daily basis. I'm excited to meet them and to see where I'll be living. It's only a matter of days now!

I'll try to keep everyone up-to-date, however I WILL be in a rural village so I doubt internet access is easily accessible ;) Check back when you can, hopefully it'll all work out smoothly.

I hope Africa is ready for me because I'm not quite sure I'm ready for it, but I AM open and willing to do my best, and to let you all know how it goes :)

In one week from today, my world changes.