Thursday, June 28, 2007

Beginning the second half of the journey

Family is a wonderful thing isn't it? At least most of the time right? Well, it's been a week since I've updated my blog, and I was going to wait until next week to do it, but that "family" thing kept getting in the way, and I could hear mom's voice in the back of my head... "Why haven't you updated your blog? We're waiting to hear from you, people are asking questions, can you update your blog, we like reading it, everyone does..." and so on. So, I'm here, for the most part, because I don't want mom calling me to remind me that I haven't updated... ;)

The last week has been busy!!

I took off to Sega Thursday morning (after having a hasty lunch of "watse" [rice and beans, pronounced wachie] from a bag - I LOVE eating food out of a bag, it just seems to taste better!). It took 3 hours, which was expected, just because I have to change tro-tros and then walk a bit, and then get a taxi... it's a little bit of a hike, and the girls sometimes don't realize how much it DOES take to meet them where they live (and the $ too!).

We left to Accra (the capital of Ghana) early Friday morning, in order to find a bus to Cape Coast. In total it took about 5 hours or so from Sega to get to Cape Coast, a hike in a bus, that's for sure.

We arrived around 2:30pm and checked into a hotel that we had reserved. It was nice, and we even had our own washroom with running water!! THAT was exciting in itself, although, I'm used to not having it now - reminds me of living in Ecuador 3 years ago.

Right away we headed out to Cape Coast Castle. We were planning to see Elmina Castle as well but time did not permit - I was a little disappointed but one castle was plenty to see and I'm happy I got that opportunity to do so. We toured the castle, including a museum. It was one of the hardest things I've ever seen in my life.

We saw the dungeons where hundreds of men and women were held captive as slaves for 6-8 weeks before being shipped out, crammed together in the ships for the long journey across the Atlantic (MANY did not survive). The female dungeon could "hold" 350 women and children... it was dark, damp, dreary, and absolutely horrid. It was solid walls with 2 VERY small "skylights" that provided barely enough light to see the ground. The men's dungeon could "hold" 1000 men... and it was no better, although bigger. It was awful. I went and stayed in the male dungeon for a long time by myself, in the dark, in order to reflect. I nearly cried as "Amazing Grace" kind of floated through my mind. I can't imagine what the conditions must have looked like for these men and women, away from their families, in these horrific conditions, barely staying alive in order to be shipped like animals across the world to be owned. The feeling I got was sickening.

The hardest part of the castle was called "The Cell". And it was a small, dark room where slaves were kept who were 'rebellious' (in other words, slaves who were merely fighting for their freedom). They were locked up with no food, no water, no ventilation and with 3 SOLID doors separating them from the rest of life... they were left to die. Standing in that room with a number of other tourists, in the dark, was the most chilling experience I have ever had. It was absolutely terrifying, and as crazy as it sounds, I could honestly feel the presence of the thousands of men and women who had died in that room... for fighting for their basic rights to be treated as human beings, and not objects. We left that room feeling sick and overwhelmed with emotion. It was so hard, and I'll never forget it.

We also saw a lookout post where signals were passed from one fort to another.

When we got back to the hotel, we finished the evening with a beer ontop of the hotel rooftop where we all had a great meal... we needed a few beers just to ease the unsettling experience of the day... I could've used 5... maybe more.

The next day (Saturday), we all were up early to head to Kakum National Park. We bought our breakfast from the vendors at the bus station (as we usually do) and I ate porridge, out of a bag... bad idea as it was REALLY hot and I was burning myself all over the place! But it was a neat experience nonetheless, although one I won't probably do again!

We toured a small museum about the park before heading on the hike up a very rough walkway of rocks and roots. We were heading to a large Canopy walkway (a bridge hanging above the trees - highest point 40 m). It was 350 m long, made up of 5 different bridges separated by large posts to support them. It was GREAT entertainment! It was a little scary but very very cool to be above the trees and to see so far. There were even monkeys below us!! I couldn't see them though, but a couple of the girls did. They were moving through the trees, and I could see that! And you could hear them, they sounded like they were screaming! The walk was really awesome and I'm really glad we got to do it, so high up and swinging back and forth.

After the bridge we went on a walk through the semi-insidious forest, 90% humidity (man was it hot...) and we learned about a number of different natural medicines taken from trees and plants from the area. It was neat, although hot and sweaty.

We had lunch at the restaurant and then took a tro-tro back to Cape Coast. When we got back, we wandered around the market looking at material and beads and whatnot. There was a small band wandering through the market as well, raising money for something, I took pictures and gave them a little something.

We got back to the hotel, and as we were tired from all the walking, we relaxed, played cards, had dinner and had a few drinks to enjoy the beautiful evening. In the morning we had french toast, and it was the best damn french toast I have ever had... we all DEVOURED our food, it was sooo good. We got ready after breakfast and headed back to Accra.

Because it was Sunday, there were no buses for me to go to Kpong from the station we were at, so I jumped into a tro-tro with some guys who were going to another station... I went alone, it was fine, an adventure, and they didn't charge me for the ride. I took a tro-tro home and was happy to get back.

Oh, along the way I taught HIV/AIDS lessons to anyone who would listen, or who had questions after they asked what I was doing in Ghana... that's a few people now I've talked to about it, in the oddest places. Internet cafe, bus, house at the end of the street, bus station...

The rest of this week has been really quiet, nothing really going on, although I AM getting a couple of dresses made and I'm really looking forward to seeing them. I hope they turn out nice!! I'm sure they will, one already did that was made for me last month.

I'm looking forward to this weekend, I can't believe it's going to be July 1st! The Canadian embassy here has invited us all down to celebrate, on Monday, but I won't be around. I'm going with the guys I live with to the beach to celebrate their July 1st holiday - Republic Day. It should be great fun! A good friend of mine, Yahaya (Yaya) is coming home from school this weekend too so he'll join us all at the beach. I'm looking forward to going away with these guys, they're hilarious and we're like family.

Today was pretty quiet - I taught a class and then Youth4Change. It's really coming along and I'm really trying to put the power into their hands. It's their group so they are going to run it, it's been tough, I'll admit, but it's coming along and we're going to be doing some presentations in a few weeks to local groups in the community (I hope!). We'll see how it all unfolds. I'm going to make them a banner and maybe buy them t-shirts... we'll see how it goes, maybe we'll do a fundraiser... no, that's too much.

I'm doing great, things are really going well and I'm really part of the community. My dangme is more recognizable and I'm understanding much more, although we speak a lot in English (thankfully). The people I live with are taking great care of me, the school looks out for me and I'm just taking it all in. I can't believe I'm over 1/2 way into this journey and now it's the heading towards the end - even if it's 6 weeks away, I can still feel it, and it's already sad. The relationships that I've built will forever change me and I am thankful for them. I'm going to miss Ghana, so I have to make the best of it I can while I'm here.

I hope home is well and nothing disastrous has happened, I'll admit, I haven't a clue what's going on in Canada... although my little short-wave radio has provided a little news from around the world... something big with Palestine and the USA? I'm trying to follow along where I can, but it's just not easy.

I'm thinking of everyone, and miss everyone muchly. I'm so excited to share my experience with you when I return!

Until next week, or so.... (mom better not call...)

Lots of love,

Dede xox

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Almost 1/2 Way!

Hello hello!

Time for a Dede-does-Africa update :)

So, I've realized that African heat, really is... hot. It's the rainy season right now so it's actually quite cool compared to the dry season, and you can tell the Ghanaians are enjoying it... for me, it's still hot, and I sweat when it's raining regardless. Although, I must admit, sometimes the rain cools everything down so much that I can sleep well and relax without having to constantly wipe the sweat from my brow. It's better than -30 during our winter though!!

This weekend I'm heading to Cape Coast, which is in the south western side of Ghana. I'm VERY excited as I get to see Elmina Castle. It was the largest port for the slave trade hundreds of years ago. This year is the bi-centennial anniversary of the abolition of slavery - so there is a lot of history to be explored at this site. Because this port is on the coast line, there was a lot of trading of varying goods all those years ago as well. It's a very fascinating place and although it's a good 7 hours by bus (I'm talking, sitting so close to your fellow passenger that you can feel their body heat), I'm really looking forward to it! I'll be sure to write about it when I get back! Tomorrow I'm heading to Sega to meet up with the rest of "Team Canada" and then early Friday morning we'll be on our way! I'll get back Monday afternoon sometime I'm sure, and make it back to Kpong for Tuesday. It's a good solid trip.

I can't believe that next Wednesday will be 1/2 through my trip here. It's really amazing. Some days I can't believe I've been here for only 6 weeks because it feels like I just got here and just finally got into a groove! I'm already sad to be leaving, it's going to be very hard to leave everyone and everything that I have experienced. I don't really want to think about it.

The HIV/AIDS group that I've developed in the community (at the school I'm at) has got a name now, it's official -

Youth4Change
HIV/AIDS Educators

Respect for All
Responsibility for Knowledge
Strength through Unity
Courage to Fight

We're very excited and I'm trying to cram as much information into these students as I can so that they are able to teach when I leave. Tuesday meetings are lecture days, where I provide the information, and they take notes. Thursdays are practice days where they have to teach each other and review the material. Hopefully everyone will really know all of this material in order to teach others when I leave. Two of the teachers at the school are going to take on the responsibility of monitoring the group when I head home, I'm grateful for their help and that they have the same vision for an HIV/AIDS free world that I do. I'd like to get t-shirts printed and maybe a banner for the students so I may dip into some of my funds for that. I want them to be united and clear in their cause for others to see. We'll see how it pans out.

I've been slowly transitioning into the whitest Ghanaian in my community. At one point, I was wearing a wrap, eating a common food with my hands (banku), listening to African music, speaking the native language, and even getting some new colour! I was amazed, and everyone has seen and supported this Africanization I've been undergoing ;) Hopefully I'll be able to transfer some of it to my behaviour at home, it's fun and different, and most of the time is WAY more convenient than some of the things we do at home. I love wearing my bright wraps, I'm excited to bring a number of materials home to wear :)

On a side note - I scraped my knee the other day, I was playing with a baby named Emanuel, he's 7 months old and I was really close to the ground. My knee hit the hard rocky ground and everyone gasped right away. I'll admit, it hurt more than I let on but it's healing. With a little sun, it won't even be noticeable.

Life is good and I'm really building some great relationships, some of which are strictly because of the way I walk to school, or along the roadside. I hear my name, Dede, called at least 100 times a day. Someone is calling me, or a child sees me and wants to say hello, or just to get my attention. The lady two houses down sells oranges and I see her often. The lady along the roadside sells me my toilet paper and some crackers and soap... and a couple of young men sell me my pre-paid phone card for my cell phone here - yes I have a cell phone, it really wasn't that expensive and allows me to keep in contact with some friends here (both Canadian and Ghanaian) as well as my family. It's also a source of security for when I travel alone for my host family - if there's a problem (or perhaps I get seriously lost somewhere - which hasn't happened yet thankfully) I can call them and someone will rescue me if I need it. I enjoy having it and will leave it for someone here to have when I leave. I plan on leaving the majority of my things, clothes, and some odds and ends that really would be appreciated by the people I live with, I know they'd appreciate it.

My host dad, Pops, is really happy with how things have been going with me here and has mentioned that he'd like to have 2 students stay with his family next year (in May, the next group of Intercordia students). I'll have to communicate that when I get back home to the coordinators.

I learned that Pops owns the house that we all live in and rents the various rooms out to individuals or families. I also learned that when people come to get water from our one pipe line, they pay per bucket of water they take - 200 cedis per bucket (which really is maybe a cent in CND dollars). I hadn't noticed that before, that people pay for their water from the house, as Pops has to pay the utility bill at the end of the month - interesting! Now that I've become more familiar with my surroundings and the happenings of the house, I'm better able to notice some of the smaller details.

Pops has a computer - he runs 3 schools (mind you one school only has 50 students, and no walls and half dilapidated chalkboards [which is flat wood boards covered in battery acid - real dangerous don't you think?]). I've used it a few times to help start writing an assignment I have due in August. I enjoy working on it while I'm in the context that I'm writing about, it's extremely helpful.

I hope everyone is well and enjoying June, nearly July!! Next weekend I'm going to the beach with some of the guys I live with to spend the day having some fun. It's Republic Day on July 1st and Canada Day for me, so we'll celebrate them both by taking a mini-vacation, it should be fun!

I miss you and will be in touch soon,

Much love,

Dede

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Over a Month In!

Hello Everyone!

Nye nge saminya lo? (Are you all well?)

I'm sorry it has taken so long to update my blog. I've been getting harassing emails from people to update them on the happenings in Ghana, so here I am.

I re-read some of my journal entries trying to come up with some things to write about here but I soon realized that there is just too much (it must be why I'm nearly done filling up two journals!). I may have to buy another one while I'm here, I've been writing like crazy!

So, I thought I'd just share some of the things I have come across while I've been here,what I've seen lately at least.

First, and foremost, there are naked children everywhere... something I haven't exactly seen at home. The body truly is an instrument here, and is used as such. If you have to pee, you easily can find a bush and go, no questions, no looks, nothing. Men let loose right on the street, facing away from everyone thankfully. I was on a bus coming back from Sega a week or so ago and a couple of women jumped off the bus, ran behind it, hiked up their skirts and relieved themselves, in full few! What a difference from home! It's rather refreshing I'll admit because here the body is really used for all that it can be. I've never seen so many people carry so many things on their heads. The other day, a woman set her basket down in our courtyard for my host-mum to see...she had a hundred live crabs, or more! People carry anything and everything on their heads, I can't believe it, I tried carrying water and it was brutal! Mind you, I've had 21 years of NO practice, so they've got that over me.

Funny story - I was sitting in my room, in my chair, watching the happenings of the house when Pops brought a sheet of cloth for me to hangup at my door for some privacy. Low and behold, the one book I was trying to forget over the summer appeared before my face for the next 2 moths, a Harry Potter bed sheet. I couldn't stop laughing. That wasn't the only 'home' reminder since I have been here though. If you can believe it, a man came walking into our courtyard to visit someone, and he was wearing a Toronto Maple Leafs jersey!! I ran after him to take a picture, the poor man, I probably scared him half to death as he didn't really seem to understand me.

I've been working on my dangme, it's a tough language let me tell you, but I'm trying and people are impressed. They are often shocked when they hear me speak their native language. One of the problems though, is that there are many native languages here, so many people try and speak to me in theirs, and I just don't understand them. I even started a dangme book in order to help me remember the language and to help me learn it. It's coming along, I'm sure it will be fun to look at when I get home to share it with everyone!

Last week I had my first meeting with the HIV/AIDS group I've been trying to develop. I had so many students interested in participating that I had to choose 4 students from each of 5 classes, so 20 students. I tried to explain the reasoning for the program, some of my goals and hopes as well. It's tough because I don't know how much they all understand. Although, the teachers have chosen students from their classes that are excellent students, so I'm sure they understand more than I give them credit for. The problem I've run into though is that students seem really shy and fearful of being wrong. I wouldn't doubt them, when they use a cane in the school.

Teachers cane their students for not getting an answer right after a lesson, for misbehaving, or for no good reason at all. It's very hard to watch, and I often close the door to the teacher's office so that I don't have to watch it. The teachers know how I feel about it as we have had discussions but it's hard because my role here isn't to impose my values, beliefs and culture on these people. I'm here to participate, to learn, and to observe. I've said my piece and it's still so hard. The government has said that caning is no longer acceptable in schools, but the private schools still use this method of punishing. If a government official were t o come to the school, they would have to throw away their sticks. It's been tough.

Just to wrap up as I'm running out of time (today's internet has been slow), I've been buying material to use to make clothes - it's so cheap, and the patterns and colours are beautiful. I've had one dress made so far, it was bought for me from my host family - it will be very pretty in the fall.

I also washed my clothes by hand for the fist time yesterday, and rubbed some skin right off my fingers. They hurt today! It's going to take some practice to get it down, but I'll get it! I've got some great video of me washing.

I hope everyone is well, I'm thinking of everyone, and although I haven't had a chance to respond to everyone, I'm thinking of you. The internet is so slow today, I've been here for 2 hours and I'm ready to head out soon. Today was the first day I've come here by myself, I've got to figure out how to get home now ;) I'll be fine!

Kimi, Dave, Lisa, Mom, Dad, all other family members and friends, I love you and miss you and will see you all shortly! For those who are keeping up to date with my adventures, thank you for reading, I appreciate your support!

Much love,

Dede